At the Eat 'n' Park buffet this morning, Nancy described some of the things she learned about Tajikistan. Nancy's been researching material for the 2007 edition of our family calendar, "The Armchair Traveller III." What she told me was so fascinating, I asked her to share it with the UnSpace readers. She dictated this article to me, and I typed it, asking questions along the way. Although I did some editing and formatting, this is her article. Thanks, Sweetheart!
Tajikistan is technically in Central Asia, bounded by China on the east, Afghanistan on the south, Kyrgyzstan on the north, and Uzbekistan on the west. It is arguably the poorest of the former segments of the USSR. The Pamir mountains and the foothills of the Himilyaias make this a terribly mountainous country. Lonely Planet says "If you like it vertical, Tajikistan has the landscape for you." In the southern lowlands Tajikistan is subtropical and the mountainous highlands glaciated. The northern part of the country is cut off from the southern part for most of the year by bad roads and snow.
The land all around the mountains is strategic. Many trade routes pass through Tajikistan. Conquerers love the land but they don't pay attention to the mountains. The mountains are so steep, oppressed people fled to them for safety and freedom. Normally mountains are where terrorists and guerrillas hide out, but these mountains are too rugged and steep and life too harsh for anything but survival. The people are Muslim but not extremist. The country is secular, and they like it that way. They're worried about radical fundamentalist Islam creeping into their country from Afghanistan and elsewhere. There's a picture on the net where some fool attempted to take a tank up into the mountains; the tank is overturned in a raging river. People have been fleeing to these mountains for over 6,000 years, and they live like it. They are so primitive and isolated that virtually every pocket of people has it's own language.
In researching Tajikistan, I came across the web site of a man who cycled across Tajikistan with a friend. If he had not had the photographs to back up what he said, I would not have believed him. The photographer and his friend are incredibly tough. I give them credit, they are biking some of the steepest mountains and camping in some of the harshest country anywhere. At times, they make do with virtually nothing.
In one incident, these two are fording a raging river. As they struggle across, they notice people on the other side armed with Kalishnikov machine guns. One of the men yells something; it doesn't sound good. As it turns out, he was ordering the other armed men to help the cyclists cross the river.
Jeff lent them his bike and I did the same. In exchange we got a crash course in how to handle a Kalashnikov. Two happy Tajiks cycling around laughing on the green hills and two westerners playing with a huge machine gun.
Tajikistan has breathtaking scenery, with georgous mountains, clear high-altitude mountain lakes, majestic glaciers, vertical cliffs and land too difficult to spoil. Mountain climbing, parasailing, and trekking are some of the attractions of Tajikistan. Some of the land has a "lunar landscape" quality to it. High in the mountains, it can get kind of desolate at times. Back in the USSR days, it was known as the "Switzerland of the USSR."
If you want an adventure vacation, Tajikistan might be for you. This is not a destination for the faint of heart. There is still a little civil unrest in the country, making it a occasionally dangerous. You should keep up on the current trouble spots. If someone says "There's fighting in such-and-such a city", then avoid that city and its surroundings.
People of Tajikistan are very friendly. You may well be the only tourist they have ever seen, especially if you go up into the mountains. Russian is widely spoken. If you're staying with people, offer $5 a night. They may refuse: keep offering, because they are dirt poor and need the help. Thresholds and bread are considered to be alive, so treat them with respect.
The U.S. Ambassador to Tajikistan is a former National Geographic photographer. Througuout the year, he takes photographs. The proceeds went to buy coats and hats for the villages where he took the pictures.